Highway to Hell: Ghana Style

When we planned our time in Ghana we left a few days open as a buffer in case something happened or if there was some place we wanted to visit. At the last minute we decided to use those days to make a trip to Cape Coast to see Kakum National Park and the Cape Coast slave castle. This is the story of our yin-yang travel experience to and from Cape Coast.

When we decided to head for Cape Coast, we did a little research which led us to the STC bus service. We were told to arrive to the bus station plenty early as the buses sell out. Alena knew the Ghanaians we spoke to were serious as she said people rarely say to arrive early for anything in Ghana. With this in mind we left our hostel at 6:30 am to arrive at the bus station before 7 am for a bus that would leave at 8:30(ish)am.

We made it to the station with little fan fair, although there was a little worrying as we were not sure we were headed to the right station. We were able to get two seats next to each other for the 8:30 bus to Cape Coast.

Before we left to Cape Coast, we asked the ticket counter lady if we could also buy our tickets for our return journey. We were disappointed to find out that our return ticket would have to be purchased at the station in Cape Coast.

The bus was an fantastic experience. It was spacious and comfortable with large leather recliners. The bus had air conditioning, a little bathroom on board and we even received a little morning snack (a piece of bread with butter-like spread and a warm, gooey ginger drink).

As we made our way to Cape Coast on our luxurious bus, we dozed, snacked and took in the passing scenes from our clean and elevated vantage point. I must say it was quite the pleasant journey. We wouldn’t know just how nice that bus ride was until we made our way back towards Accra 2 days later.

We were dropped off at the “station” in Cape Coast and made our way up the wooden stairs to the ticket counter over a local beer joint.

Our inquiry for return tickets to Accra on Wednesday was met with a stern and incompassioned “FULL” from the ticketing lady. Alena and I both thought we had misheard as we both immediately repeated our request. Maybe she had misunderstood which day we wanted.

But alas, no, there were not tickets for either of the two busses that day nor the day after.

She must of picked up on our frantic looks as her tone became much friendlier as we asked her about the possibility of taking a Tro Tro from Cape Coast to Accra.

She informed us that yes we could take a Tro Tro instead. Yes there was a Tro Tro station not far from where we were staying within the city. And yes they leave often, so we should have no issue getting one when we decide to depart.

We were delighted to hear this and later decided that it would actually be better. It would be a great experience taking another long Tro Tro trip in Ghana and should save us some money! While our trip to Cape Coast was not expensive by any means (25 cedis per person, or about $8 USD), we figured the Tro Tro should be significantly cheaper.

We spent two lovely days, and somewhat hot uncomfortable nights, in Cape Coast before we were to set off again back towards Accra.

Foster, our taxi driver the day before from the trip to Kakum National Park was a great help the morning of our return journey. He picked us up from our hostel and dropped us off right at the Tro Tro station so we could find the correct Tro Tro towards Accra.

We paid our 5 cedis each for our luggage to the stuttering yet super friendly driver. We tried to confirm the price to Accra but with all the hype and excitement around loading a Tro Tro, we were told to just go sit down and pay the mate later.

On a Tro Tro there is the driver and his mate. The mate is in charge of everything inside the Tro Tro, but the driving of course, including collecting the fares and filling empty seats, both before the van leaves and even as it’s traveling through towns. The mate yelling the Tro Tro’s destination as we drive past, with potential riders yelling back if they are a match.

Quickly our Tro Tro was full at Cape Coast and the driver and his mate started to tie shut the back doors of the van to keep the bulging luggage intact. With our jammed in bags somewhat secured, we drove off towards Accra.

Immediately the man next to me starts vomiting on himself. Drool and mucus hanging from his mouth, while he is slump over in his seat.

I am both disgusted and concerned. I ask him if he is ok and he mumbles a weak no. Now I’m yelling at the mate from the back of van that the dude next to me is throwing up all over himself. People seemed more alarmed at my yelling than at the sick man.

I ask again if he is alright and the man looks up and nods yes. So the Tro Tro keeps driving with the man next to me’s shirt and his pack covered in vomit. Luckily it was self contained on his own personal effects so I was spared being an intimate part of his experience. With the windows temporarily down and hot air from outside blowing through, the carriage did not contain quite the stench I was dreading.

While in a normal bus, if someone vomited there would be room to evade the scene, on this Tro Tro we were packed in like sardines. I had my small back pack at my feet and our water boiler and a small bag of sachets on my lap. My knees were above my belly button while simultaneously pressed into the seat in from of me. I was seated on the mate’s side of the car, in the farthest back jumper-seat (a seat that folds up to let people behind pass by and exit the van) with no control over the opening and closing of the windows. To say the least, I was not a happy camper.

A bit of morale reprise came when I noticed Alena was sitting next to a mother and a small baby. The baby was only 4 months old and stayed so quiet and peaceful the whole journey. The child had large inquisitive eyes and long curled eyelashes so I assumed it was a baby girl. The mother’s seat was the one my knees where firmly pressed against and I did my best not to press through the opening in the seat to disturb her.

At one point the mother was rummaging through her bag on the floor and Alena offered to hold the baby so that the mother could grab what was needed. Alena’s face lit up with excitement and fear and the mother placed the small child in Alena’s arms. The baby seemed to snuggle right in and continue it’s nap until the mother was finished with her chore.

Soon after, the mate finally began to collect the fairs. He started in the front so it took a while before we were asked for our 16 cedis each. I was a bit surprised and disappointed in the amount as it made our total fair 21 cedis per person. Only a little less than our fancy bus ride had cost.

The only redeeming factor was that we did not embark on this uncomfortable ride out of choice, instead we were forced through a lack of available bus spots into the current situation. (And Alena would add she got to hold the baby!)

As we sat in the stifling heat, in the frustrating afternoon traffic between Cape Coast and Accra I heard an odd screech. While there were multiple children in the Tro Tro along with the above mentioned baby, this sound seemed a bit inhuman. None these kids looked like they were in the distress that this outburst seemed to indicate, but I swore it came from inside our Tro Tro. But not seeing the likely source around me, I figured it must have been a goat outside and the sound just blew in.

A bit anxious to get moving again, I looked at the gps on my phone and was glad to see we were almost to our destination; the turn off for a little beach town just west of Accra called Kokobrite, where we were to stay for 3 nights and relax on a tropical beach before we leave Ghana for Europe at the end of the week.

The mate soon indicated to us that the Tro Tro was pulling over so we could exit and grab our luggage. As I shuffled by my fellow passengers, including my sick seatmate and the new mother, I looked down to see a full sized, live chicken under the seat in front of Alena.

I quickly notified her of our feathered Tro Tro passenger and we both laughed and rolled our eyes at the ridiculousness of it all. Having found the source of the strange noise and finally getting out of that forsaken Tro Tro, a little euphoria came over me.

After quite an odd ride we finally got in a taxi and were headed to a few days of much needed peace and quiet!

P.S. Photos from our adventures in Accra and Cape Coast will be coming soon!